This cheeky service works. When you’re eating tacos, you don’t want to feel like you have to behave. And yes, you should be eating tacos; pale, tender, aromatic tortillas, piled high with stuff. So much stuff, you cannot eat them gracefully. The exceptionally fatty, wobbly carnitas are amplified with chicharron and jowl meat, while the pork in the al pastor is seriously charred and crisp. There is excellent fried catfish, the tartar sauce sparkling with pickled green tomatoes, and a mushroom-pumpkin taco involves benne seeds.